Walter Van Beirendonck’s Future-Proof Fashion

Walter Van Beirendonck (Belgium, 1957) is a pioneer of innovation in fashion. With his avant-garde and witty designs, he constantly challenges prevailing norms. The designer is regarded as one of the Antwerp Six, the legendary fashion collective that redefined contemporary fashion in the early 1980s. Throughout his entire career, he has sought total creative freedom, which in 2000 prompted him to reintroduce his independent fashion label in the market.

We asked the exciting Belgian to work with us on a special project where denim, innovation and a passion for experimentation come together seamlessly. Literally. Because the designer’s starting point was to challenge traditional construction techniques, and keep stitching to an absolute minimum. Instead he has used glue and tape. The result? A striking and innovative but highly wearable capsule collection consisting of jeans, denim jackets, knitwear and T-shirts. Each piece is unisex. We asked Van Beirendonck about what drives him, his design principles and love of denim.

Why did you agree to team up with us?

Well, I’ve worked a lot with denim in the past. I’m reminded of the early 1990s when I was working for Gianfranco Ferré, or later for Wild & Lethal Trash. In recent years, sadly, I haven’t been using the fabric so much for my own label. Jeans are a complicated and costly product to develop as an independent designer, and so I thought it would be a fantastic idea to team up with G-STAR to do this. It was a golden opportunity. A challenge.

What makes it challenging?

I was given carte blanche, and that’s unique. I could do whatever I wanted. But it’s not in my character to stick to what I know. It was clear in my mind that I wanted to create garments, not an artwork or an installation. I wanted to challenge myself and explore new techniques. I want to be future-proof. And yes, that statement is literally integrated in my collection.

Why?

The fashion industry still operates in quite a basic way. People at sewing machines stitching garments together as fast as possible: not much has changed there in recent decades. Geographically it has changed, though, with production shifting to the far east. But from an innovation point of view there hasn’t been much progress, especially if you compare it to other industries.

You’ve been working for more than 18 months on this collection.

Yes, that’s right. It was liberating to be able to take the time to do it. Time has become a luxury. In recent years I’ve become totally fascinated by how robots work and how things like 3D printing are evolving. Taking these ideas, I began to brainstorm. Trying out new construction techniques, looking at how we could take it a step further and stretch the limits of what is possible. Then I came up with the idea of seeing whether we could work without sewing machines, and instead use techniques such as gluing and taping. Together with G-STAR, I’ve been able to push the boundaries a lot further.

You’ve called the collection 'Denim with Balls.'

I give all my collections a name, and this one is no exception. That’s how I try to come up with a story, pushing me in some kind of direction. And that plan works well as the direction I choose comes into focus. For this particular collaboration, it’s been a play on words, pointing to both daring and innovative working. The three-dimensional, round shapes are literally punched or knitted into the fabrics.

Statements often pop up in your work. Why are they important to you?

I write a lot. Short texts, statements and phrases. In this collection it’s all about ‘Future Proof’, ‘Wow’ and ‘Stitch Less’. They give meaning. I use them to capture the times in which we find ourselves today.

You want a dialogue…

Definitely, I want to initiate a dialogue through my designs. I have a positive nature, but in intimate company I can also be darker. I find it astonishing that the world can be so chaotic, but at the same time art can exist.

Are you a committed person?

Absolutely. Every six months I have a voice, and I can use it to respond to current events. I believe that every public figure who can and wants to, should actually do that. I see fashion as a means of communication. What’s more, I can respond much faster than autonomous artists.

Yet, you find all kinds of connections with the art world. You work where fashion and art overlap.

Absolutely, I feel most at home there. The art world knows my work very well. I feel a connection there. But I refuse to pigeon-hole myself.

What do you think your influence has been on the fashion world so far?

Oh, that’s difficult to say. Somebody else could see that better than me. But I think that above all it’s my stubbornness and a desire for autonomy combined with my ongoing belief in myself that have helped me in my career. Because ultimately I have taken a number of decisions over the years to approach fashion in a particular way, which certainly in the 1980s and 1990s were not so obvious at the time.

What do you mean by that?

I’ve always worked with all kinds of types, bodies and skin colors. And let’s not forget the gender issue. These are all things I’ve been drawing attention to for decades.

And which are still topical.

I wanted this collection to be unisex, yes. It was also important not to have a retro feel. I wanted to hint at the future.

Your work is instantly recognizable.

It’s funny you say that, because while I was working through thousands of sketches for my latest book, it also struck me that my work is pretty consistent. And strangely enough, I feel that some designs I made 30 years ago are still relevant, so a lot of young people wear my collections, both new items and vintage pieces.

You’re not a designer who has grown old with his public?

[Laughing] No, that’s great isn’t it! And pretty special. I don’t pretend to be ageless, but I try not to react out of nostalgia.

You’re well in tune with the spirit of the times, I think.

I feel it’s important to keep up to date with what’s going on. I don’t think that’s got anything to do with age. You either have that interest or talent, or you don’t.

You’re in your late 60’s. How long will you keep going?

Ah the future, the future. As long as it gives me pleasure and I enjoy what I do, I’ll keep going. Sometimes I do feel older, of course, but at the same time I feel young and full of energy. So I might as well keep going, don’t you think?

The G-STAR x Walter Van Beirendonck collection is available online and at the following stores:

The Netherlands
G-STAR Amsterdam P.C. Hooftstraat 

Belgium
G-STAR Antwerp Huidevettersstraat

Germany

G-STAR Düsseldorf
G-STAR Frankfurt Zeil
G-STAR Hamburg Bergstrasse
G-STAR Munchen

Austria

G-STAR Wien Neubaugasse



Japan

G-STAR Tokyo Shibuya
G-STAR Tokyo Ginza 
G-STAR Kyoto
G-STAR Osaka Namba Parks
G-STAR Osaka Horie
G-STAR Osaka Umeda
G-STAR Nagoya Sakae



United States
G-STAR Melrose
G-STAR Atlanta