You are known for your statement couture, but also gained recognition for your slow fashion ethos and contemporary way of working. Can you describe your slow design process?
“I used to work within the system, so we used to produce two collections a year. At some point I thought, ‘you know, I decide what rhythm I want to work in and if I feel like doing it like this then I should be able to,’ so I changed the process. Now, we do one couture collection a year and from there we pull out one ready-to-wear drop.”
07 February 2023
Collaborations
Denim After Dark
A collaboration with renowned fashion designer David Laport
Combining our denim DNA with David Laport’s expressive designs, ‘Denim After Dark’ is the capsule collection where couture replaces the casual. With signature pleats and sculptural design combined, The Bow Top and Haute Couture dress refresh our collection with the ultimate eveningwear. We sat down with the Dutch fashion designer to discuss his nocturnal habits, forward-thinking ideas and design process for ‘Denim After Dark.’ “We wanted to make something glamorous. Something feminine. Something totally different. And of course, something in denim.”
Why did you change it?
“Obviously we all need to change something for the planet. And I don't think I need to make a very big ready-to-wear collection. It also doesn’t suit my company.”
From a sustainability point of view?
“Well, it doesn't exist to be 100% sustainable. People can say they are but it's not possible. But you can work more responsibly. So, sometimes we have zero waste dresses, maybe the material itself is not so sustainable, but there is no waste from producing the dress. Then sometimes the material is perfect but when you make trousers there will always be waste. For me, it's most important that we are researching and discovering how we can improve. Every time.”
How do you manifest a more responsible approach in fashion?
“I develop a lot of my materials myself. I think that’s important. It makes a garment more personal and if you develop your own textiles you can start from scratch. It could include using a good yarn or a certain way of working. This year, I’ll also be taking part in a sustainable fabric research project. It’s exciting because we’ll be working on how to find more eco-friendly materials to replace the current ones. And of course, there's a lot of room for improvements.”
“Obviously we all need to change something for the planet. And I don't think I need to make a very big ready-to-wear collection. It also doesn’t suit my company.”
From a sustainability point of view?
“Well, it doesn't exist to be 100% sustainable. People can say they are but it's not possible. But you can work more responsibly. So, sometimes we have zero waste dresses, maybe the material itself is not so sustainable, but there is no waste from producing the dress. Then sometimes the material is perfect but when you make trousers there will always be waste. For me, it's most important that we are researching and discovering how we can improve. Every time.”
How do you manifest a more responsible approach in fashion?
“I develop a lot of my materials myself. I think that’s important. It makes a garment more personal and if you develop your own textiles you can start from scratch. It could include using a good yarn or a certain way of working. This year, I’ll also be taking part in a sustainable fabric research project. It’s exciting because we’ll be working on how to find more eco-friendly materials to replace the current ones. And of course, there's a lot of room for improvements.”
Could you give a little insight into the concept ‘Denim After Dark’?
“When you make one-off pieces, there needs to be a full circle story. It’s very important to what I do. ‘Denim After Dark’ was about this city vibe, you know, also this G-Star feel, a bit raw. The location was perfect - we shot in Rotterdam. I really thought it was important to make a contemporary, modern statement featuring the ultimate cool girl. I asked the talented fashion photographer Walter Pierre to shoot and he was such a great addition to our story.”
Where did you start before creating this capsule collection?
“Well, G-Star wanted to do something totally different with a hint of glamour. If you make an evening gown from denim it’s not the easiest challenge so I had to think about it a lot. But that was the starting point. We wanted to make something glamorous. Something feminine. Something totally different. And of course, something in denim.”
That resulted in the Couture Dress and Bow Top. Both expressive pleated designs.
“Oh yes, I obviously have a big love for pleats. But you don't see a lot of pleating happening in denim. You actually never see it. So, this for me was the most important thing. I wanted to make something festive, a statement piece that was easy to wear. So, you can party and go out in both pieces. And you can wear the top with your G-Star trousers and sneakers too. From the beginning, The Bow Top was super clear in my head. Then we started designing the dress and I thought- this needs be an explosion of that design. It became very sculptural which is how I love to work. That’s what you can see in all of my designs.”
“When you make one-off pieces, there needs to be a full circle story. It’s very important to what I do. ‘Denim After Dark’ was about this city vibe, you know, also this G-Star feel, a bit raw. The location was perfect - we shot in Rotterdam. I really thought it was important to make a contemporary, modern statement featuring the ultimate cool girl. I asked the talented fashion photographer Walter Pierre to shoot and he was such a great addition to our story.”
Where did you start before creating this capsule collection?
“Well, G-Star wanted to do something totally different with a hint of glamour. If you make an evening gown from denim it’s not the easiest challenge so I had to think about it a lot. But that was the starting point. We wanted to make something glamorous. Something feminine. Something totally different. And of course, something in denim.”
That resulted in the Couture Dress and Bow Top. Both expressive pleated designs.
“Oh yes, I obviously have a big love for pleats. But you don't see a lot of pleating happening in denim. You actually never see it. So, this for me was the most important thing. I wanted to make something festive, a statement piece that was easy to wear. So, you can party and go out in both pieces. And you can wear the top with your G-Star trousers and sneakers too. From the beginning, The Bow Top was super clear in my head. Then we started designing the dress and I thought- this needs be an explosion of that design. It became very sculptural which is how I love to work. That’s what you can see in all of my designs.”
‘Denim after Dark’ focuses on the nocturnal moments in life. But what about you? Are you a morning or night person?
“I really am a night person. Definitely not a morning person! I always go to bed really late and when it’s 11:00pm, I still have energy and I’m like ‘ok let's do it!’ If it’s a Friday night, I’ll be going out. To the theater or movies or whatever. My partner hates it sometimes, he’s like ‘God just calm down go watch movie or something.”
So, you come to life when the sun goes down?
Laughing: “For. Sure.”
Artists like Solange Knowles and Rihanna have worn your couture designs already. Who else do you want to see wearing these designs?
“Yeah, dressing Solange for the Met Gala was amazing. In general, I would love to make something for The Oscar’s or The Emmy Awards. But of course, Beyoncé is incredible. So, I would love to see her in my designs. I’m in love with her new album, I listen to it all the time!”
“I really am a night person. Definitely not a morning person! I always go to bed really late and when it’s 11:00pm, I still have energy and I’m like ‘ok let's do it!’ If it’s a Friday night, I’ll be going out. To the theater or movies or whatever. My partner hates it sometimes, he’s like ‘God just calm down go watch movie or something.”
So, you come to life when the sun goes down?
Laughing: “For. Sure.”
Artists like Solange Knowles and Rihanna have worn your couture designs already. Who else do you want to see wearing these designs?
“Yeah, dressing Solange for the Met Gala was amazing. In general, I would love to make something for The Oscar’s or The Emmy Awards. But of course, Beyoncé is incredible. So, I would love to see her in my designs. I’m in love with her new album, I listen to it all the time!”