The Edge of Imperfection
Over the years, Ottolinger has cultivated a cult-like following, with fans of the label forming a distinct demographic – fearless, rebellious, and unapologetically imperfect. Often balancing destruction with reconstruction, the brand’s garments appear as if they might fall apart, but each piece is carefully crafted to ensure durability. Refusing to compromise on aesthetics and comfort, Ottolinger creates designs that empower women and inspire confidence. By questioning the traditional notions of beauty and embracing flaws and open endings, the label skillfully reimagines familiar pieces in unexpected ways, from deconstructed hoodies to ceramic bags. Founders Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch met while studying together at the Basel School of Design, eventually joining forces to launch Ottolinger in 2016.
Sitting down with Gadient at the bar of our headquarters, we discussed our latest collaboration, as well as denim, dystopia, and design.
10 October 2024
Collaborations
Unorthodox Denim Experiments
Denim is about rebellion. And we are all about pushing it to new limits. In our new series, THE DENIM, emerging designers use the fabric as a canvas for research and creative exploration. The project debuts with Ottolinger, the Berlin-based label known for its raw and provocative vision that challenges conformity and reinvents tradition. For us, Ottolinger reconstructed the G-STAR Elwood — our signature 3D jean — redesigning it for the woman's body.
How did you start your label?
Christa and I studied together in Basel. As soon as I saw her work, I could immediately see the talent. I knew that if I grabbed her and suggested we work together, it could turn into something special. After we graduated, I worked in art, creating costumes for artists, while Christa was working for another label. We discussed the idea of starting our own brand together for quite a while, because we always thought we would be better at delegating than taking orders. So we decided to give it a try. We created our first collection and won the VFiles Runway competition, which led to two fashion shows in New York. One thing led to another, and it just snowballed from there.
Christa and I studied together in Basel. As soon as I saw her work, I could immediately see the talent. I knew that if I grabbed her and suggested we work together, it could turn into something special. After we graduated, I worked in art, creating costumes for artists, while Christa was working for another label. We discussed the idea of starting our own brand together for quite a while, because we always thought we would be better at delegating than taking orders. So we decided to give it a try. We created our first collection and won the VFiles Runway competition, which led to two fashion shows in New York. One thing led to another, and it just snowballed from there.
Ottolinger has a very distinct aesthetic, which some people may describe as deconstructed and dystopian. How did this vision come about?
It’s interesting. Sometimes I'm surprised by how it's perceived. "Dystopian" could have a negative connotation, but maybe it just reflects the state of the world right now. The market’s been collapsing, social media dominates our communication, and everything feels a bit dystopian. I think people see that in our work because we try to reflect human connection and connection to the world.
How do you and Christa work together?
Christa and I are quite different. We are complete opposites in how we interact with people. When we work together on a garment, you can see us and our extremes: it can be both beautiful and almost decomposing. Some people might see that as dystopian because it doesn’t look "perfect” or polished. But it’s about human connection and celebrating imperfections. Our work leaves room for interpretation and it confuses people sometimes.
It’s interesting. Sometimes I'm surprised by how it's perceived. "Dystopian" could have a negative connotation, but maybe it just reflects the state of the world right now. The market’s been collapsing, social media dominates our communication, and everything feels a bit dystopian. I think people see that in our work because we try to reflect human connection and connection to the world.
How do you and Christa work together?
Christa and I are quite different. We are complete opposites in how we interact with people. When we work together on a garment, you can see us and our extremes: it can be both beautiful and almost decomposing. Some people might see that as dystopian because it doesn’t look "perfect” or polished. But it’s about human connection and celebrating imperfections. Our work leaves room for interpretation and it confuses people sometimes.
You reworked the G-STAR Elwood. It's different from your usual work; it seems more tailored and polished.
Yes, it’s very well-done and finished—there are no raw edges. We usually struggle to finish things because we like to leave something open, so it’s never truly "done." We always want to be able to continue working on it, but sometimes you have to finish things.
The first prototype had all these raw edges and was held together with pins…
Yes, that was just how we constructed it. The whole story is that the G-STAR Elwood has a shape, right? It is a very sculpted garment, unlike the regular flat jeans where your body molds into it. And we tried to recreate this shape for a female body, which has more curves and a different anatomy. The idea was to make something that speaks to a wider audience. Incorporating elements that enhance the female form — sensual and even sexy — and at the same time, it’s also G-STAR. So it needed to have a more finished look. You have to build a bridge for people to walk over and discover both worlds. Sorry, no raw edges this time!
Yes, it’s very well-done and finished—there are no raw edges. We usually struggle to finish things because we like to leave something open, so it’s never truly "done." We always want to be able to continue working on it, but sometimes you have to finish things.
The first prototype had all these raw edges and was held together with pins…
Yes, that was just how we constructed it. The whole story is that the G-STAR Elwood has a shape, right? It is a very sculpted garment, unlike the regular flat jeans where your body molds into it. And we tried to recreate this shape for a female body, which has more curves and a different anatomy. The idea was to make something that speaks to a wider audience. Incorporating elements that enhance the female form — sensual and even sexy — and at the same time, it’s also G-STAR. So it needed to have a more finished look. You have to build a bridge for people to walk over and discover both worlds. Sorry, no raw edges this time!
Why did you specifically choose the G-STAR Elwood to reconstruct?
We visited the archive, and our approach was to pick whatever caught our eye. For us, the G-STAR Elwood stood out as the iconic G-STAR piece. I also did a bit of research on Vinted to see what’s circulating out there. And the G-STAR Elwood jeans were actually the ones sold the most from that period. It felt like the right moment — it’s always about timing.
Why did you create two versions of the G-STAR Elwood?
Again, it’s a part of our tendency to never finish things. We created one and then a second version with a zipper, which was a bit edgier, so we decided to do both. Each version has its own unique qualities.
You mentioned you wanted to focus on women's anatomy with this design. How did you approach that once you decided to reconstruct the piece?
We received five or six pairs of the original G-STAR Elwood jeans in our studio. We cut them apart and draped them directly onto the body, almost like a 3D process. That’s where the raw edges in the initial designs came from. We kept some of the iconic elements, like those around the knees and the back, but reshaped the jeans to better fit the female form. Certain areas, like the butt, needed an extra tweak, so it’s a bit more flattering. We also added an adjustment strap in the back to fit better on the hips, which is often a challenging area for women. It means you don’t always need a belt, or you can adjust it a size or two. It offers a more tailored fit.
We visited the archive, and our approach was to pick whatever caught our eye. For us, the G-STAR Elwood stood out as the iconic G-STAR piece. I also did a bit of research on Vinted to see what’s circulating out there. And the G-STAR Elwood jeans were actually the ones sold the most from that period. It felt like the right moment — it’s always about timing.
Why did you create two versions of the G-STAR Elwood?
Again, it’s a part of our tendency to never finish things. We created one and then a second version with a zipper, which was a bit edgier, so we decided to do both. Each version has its own unique qualities.
You mentioned you wanted to focus on women's anatomy with this design. How did you approach that once you decided to reconstruct the piece?
We received five or six pairs of the original G-STAR Elwood jeans in our studio. We cut them apart and draped them directly onto the body, almost like a 3D process. That’s where the raw edges in the initial designs came from. We kept some of the iconic elements, like those around the knees and the back, but reshaped the jeans to better fit the female form. Certain areas, like the butt, needed an extra tweak, so it’s a bit more flattering. We also added an adjustment strap in the back to fit better on the hips, which is often a challenging area for women. It means you don’t always need a belt, or you can adjust it a size or two. It offers a more tailored fit.
“If you look good in a pair of jeans, that is a confidence booster.”
That's a great approach. You often emphasize that you want your designs to inspire confidence in women. How do you achieve that?
We try everything on ourselves and see how it makes us feel. If we feel good, that’s a good sign. Meaning that we’d wear it ourselves. We also rely on feedback from friends who wear our pieces. In one of our first seasons, we focused on making pants, even though our sales team advised against it, saying it was the hardest category to sell. But they became our bestseller! Because we spent so much time making sure the fit was flattering, that the legs looked good, the butt looked good, whether you’re short or tall, curvy or not. If you look good in a pair of jeans, that is a confidence booster. We also recognize that most women wear trousers. If you have a few well-fitting pairs of pants at home, then you are fine. It is important for us that your body looks good in whatever we make. And that it’s also protected, and everything is secure. We want you to succeed in everything you do when wearing our designs. The world can be so tough out there, and women can sometimes be hard on each other. We want to encourage support. Go get that job, go sign that contract, you know.
A celebration of womanhood…
Absolutely, 300%.
We try everything on ourselves and see how it makes us feel. If we feel good, that’s a good sign. Meaning that we’d wear it ourselves. We also rely on feedback from friends who wear our pieces. In one of our first seasons, we focused on making pants, even though our sales team advised against it, saying it was the hardest category to sell. But they became our bestseller! Because we spent so much time making sure the fit was flattering, that the legs looked good, the butt looked good, whether you’re short or tall, curvy or not. If you look good in a pair of jeans, that is a confidence booster. We also recognize that most women wear trousers. If you have a few well-fitting pairs of pants at home, then you are fine. It is important for us that your body looks good in whatever we make. And that it’s also protected, and everything is secure. We want you to succeed in everything you do when wearing our designs. The world can be so tough out there, and women can sometimes be hard on each other. We want to encourage support. Go get that job, go sign that contract, you know.
A celebration of womanhood…
Absolutely, 300%.
Where do you find inspiration for your designs? Are there specific cultural references or influences?
I think pop culture offers a lot. It is a significant source of inspiration for us. But also designing clothes, we think “What is the wardrobe of the woman of today?”. The world is tricky, how do we navigate it, and still have fun and be the coolest out there? We all love jeans and a good hoodie. We deconstruct these familiar items and make them look different. We basically offer a wardrobe where you are super comfortable and still look very good. When we create a show or a campaign, we also set it in a specific universe — sometimes inspired by science fiction books, where we imagine placing our designs in an entirely different world. It's easier for people to connect when there's a story behind it. When we started it wasn't just about the clothes; it was about the energy of a label, something that felt supportive and celebrated womanhood. For us, it was really important to create that.
People who love Ottolinger, definitely have a certain kind of energy.
It’s a demographic, for sure.
Who is the woman that wears the G-STAR x Ottolinger jeans? What is she like?
I really think she’s fearless. The design has all these lines that kind of remind me of armor, like a knight's armor. It feels like it protects you. So you can be fearless. Someone who can wear them from morning to night — from getting up to going out to a club. You meet people, you go places. It’s about being strong and fearless. It’s a modern day armor.
I think pop culture offers a lot. It is a significant source of inspiration for us. But also designing clothes, we think “What is the wardrobe of the woman of today?”. The world is tricky, how do we navigate it, and still have fun and be the coolest out there? We all love jeans and a good hoodie. We deconstruct these familiar items and make them look different. We basically offer a wardrobe where you are super comfortable and still look very good. When we create a show or a campaign, we also set it in a specific universe — sometimes inspired by science fiction books, where we imagine placing our designs in an entirely different world. It's easier for people to connect when there's a story behind it. When we started it wasn't just about the clothes; it was about the energy of a label, something that felt supportive and celebrated womanhood. For us, it was really important to create that.
People who love Ottolinger, definitely have a certain kind of energy.
It’s a demographic, for sure.
Who is the woman that wears the G-STAR x Ottolinger jeans? What is she like?
I really think she’s fearless. The design has all these lines that kind of remind me of armor, like a knight's armor. It feels like it protects you. So you can be fearless. Someone who can wear them from morning to night — from getting up to going out to a club. You meet people, you go places. It’s about being strong and fearless. It’s a modern day armor.
“Sometimes you just need to get out, have a glass of wine, not think about work, and then the next day, you're refreshed and full of new ideas.”
Ottolinger has grown a lot over the past years. How do you balance it all as an independent label?
Oh, it's definitely overwhelming. I think what helps us is that we still really love what we do, and the ideas just keep flowing. It's like pressing fruit; the juice keeps coming out. But of course, the surroundings have changed. We started as a young, independent brand, and we’re still independent, but we’ve grown. So the circumstances change, too. We’re not just designing; we’re also working a lot with our team, handling negotiations, and juggling different roles — sometimes a best friend, sometimes a lawyer. It all reflects in what we create.
How do you keep nurturing your creativity and coming up with new ideas?
We go to exhibitions, concerts, and clubs. Places that inspire us. Sometimes you just need to get out, have a glass of wine, not think about work. And then the next day, you're refreshed and full of new ideas. It’s important to break out of your normal surroundings. It doesn't work to just sit down with a book and expect inspiration to come. You have to live life — go out, meet friends, experience new things.
Oh, it's definitely overwhelming. I think what helps us is that we still really love what we do, and the ideas just keep flowing. It's like pressing fruit; the juice keeps coming out. But of course, the surroundings have changed. We started as a young, independent brand, and we’re still independent, but we’ve grown. So the circumstances change, too. We’re not just designing; we’re also working a lot with our team, handling negotiations, and juggling different roles — sometimes a best friend, sometimes a lawyer. It all reflects in what we create.
How do you keep nurturing your creativity and coming up with new ideas?
We go to exhibitions, concerts, and clubs. Places that inspire us. Sometimes you just need to get out, have a glass of wine, not think about work. And then the next day, you're refreshed and full of new ideas. It’s important to break out of your normal surroundings. It doesn't work to just sit down with a book and expect inspiration to come. You have to live life — go out, meet friends, experience new things.