The Gold Standard
Selvedge denim goes by many names – selvage, self-edge, and selvedge – but they all equate to the same thing. Known for its unique self-finished edges which prevent fraying, hence the name, selvedge is considered gold among denim lovers. It is produced using traditional shuttle looms, resulting in approximately 36-inch-wide textile. This method creates a tighter weave, resulting in a higher quality fabric. It’s a slower and more meticulous process that also requires a knowledgeable craftsman to operate the machine. The identifying feature of selvedge is marked by a colored line that runs along the seam of the jeans—frequently rolled up by denim devotees to highlight it.
26 March 2025
Denim
Selvedge Denim 101
The holy grail of denim aficionados. More than a textile, selvedge denim is a badge of honor. Woven on vintage loom machines, it's the encapsulation of the craftmanship long associated with denim. Whether you're a newcomer or a denim devotee, this sought-after fabric will make a statement.
Memoires of a Selvedge
Japan has played a significant role in the development and popularization of selvedge denim. Initially, most of the world’s denim was produced in the US and only entered Japan after 1940s. First seen on American soldiers, denim later became a symbol of rebel pop culture icons such as James Dean and Marlon Brando, leading to its inevitable popularity among Japanese youth. However, with the rise of mass production, the quality of American denim significantly suffered. This is when the East Asian island entered the business. Instead of using projectile looms, which produced faster but lower quality denim, Japanese craftsmen mirrored traditional techniques, adopting old American shuttle looms to create selvedge denim.
In the 1970s, a group of designers from Osaka —now known as the Osaka 5 —changed the denim scene forever. They perfected selvedge denim, gaining global recognition for their commitment to quality and innovative techniques. Today, Japan is celebrated as one of the world's top producers of high-quality denim and is often named the denim capital. While not all selvedge nowadays comes from Japan, the country has been instrumental in its evolution. The movement has spread beyond the continent, to Italy and the US as well.
Japan has played a significant role in the development and popularization of selvedge denim. Initially, most of the world’s denim was produced in the US and only entered Japan after 1940s. First seen on American soldiers, denim later became a symbol of rebel pop culture icons such as James Dean and Marlon Brando, leading to its inevitable popularity among Japanese youth. However, with the rise of mass production, the quality of American denim significantly suffered. This is when the East Asian island entered the business. Instead of using projectile looms, which produced faster but lower quality denim, Japanese craftsmen mirrored traditional techniques, adopting old American shuttle looms to create selvedge denim.
In the 1970s, a group of designers from Osaka —now known as the Osaka 5 —changed the denim scene forever. They perfected selvedge denim, gaining global recognition for their commitment to quality and innovative techniques. Today, Japan is celebrated as one of the world's top producers of high-quality denim and is often named the denim capital. While not all selvedge nowadays comes from Japan, the country has been instrumental in its evolution. The movement has spread beyond the continent, to Italy and the US as well.
The Art of Denim Care
One of the key benefits of selvedge denim is its durability. To maintain the quality of selvedge denim, proper care is essential. Washing should be done sparingly to preserve the indigo dye and prevent excessive fading. When washing is necessary, it is recommended to turn the jeans inside out and use cold water with a mild detergent. Air drying is preferable to avoid shrinkage and maintain the fabric's integrity.
Additionally, storing selvedge denim in a cool, dry place helps prevent damage and prolong its lifespan. It's important to note that raw and selvedge denim are often used interchangeably, which is a common misconception. While most selvedge denim is raw, it can also exist as pre-washed, and you can care for it the same way you would for raw denim.
One of the key benefits of selvedge denim is its durability. To maintain the quality of selvedge denim, proper care is essential. Washing should be done sparingly to preserve the indigo dye and prevent excessive fading. When washing is necessary, it is recommended to turn the jeans inside out and use cold water with a mild detergent. Air drying is preferable to avoid shrinkage and maintain the fabric's integrity.
Additionally, storing selvedge denim in a cool, dry place helps prevent damage and prolong its lifespan. It's important to note that raw and selvedge denim are often used interchangeably, which is a common misconception. While most selvedge denim is raw, it can also exist as pre-washed, and you can care for it the same way you would for raw denim.
EXPLORE THE COLLECTION
